admin Succulent Guide March 11, 2025

Haworthia, Haworthiopsis, Tulista and Gasteria, all delightful genera of succulents, are beloved by plant enthusiasts for their unique rosettes and leaf shapes, compact growth habit and prominent leaf patterns. Tulista and Haworthiopsis were split from the genus Haworthia, and although growing of adult plants has some differences, the sowing process for all three remains the same (for simplicity, they are referred here collectively as Haworthia). Whether you’re a novice or an experienced grower, growing Haworthia from seeds can be a rewarding and satisfying experience as you watch a plant grow from a tiny seed to a mature succulent plant. This article will guide you through the process of sowing Haworthia seeds and offer tips for achieving successful growth.

Growing from seeds allows you to access a wide range of varieties that might not be available as mature plants. Sowing seeds is a generative propagation, seedlings of the same species and from the same locality can be very variable and it is a joy to observe the differences among them. However, patience and dedication are essential, as growing from seeds takes time before the plants reach maturity. Seedlings are also delicate and more prone to diseases, especially fungal infections, making careful attention to every step of the process crucial.

Although these instructions below are quite long as I tried to describe all necessary things, possibilities and complications that can happen, I think sowings can handle everyone, it is just necessary to ensure a few things: clean environment, good quality seeds, selecting a suitable growing location and consistently monitoring the sowings.

What You’ll Need

Haworthia seeds: Ensure they are from a reliable source to get good quality. Haworthias are self-sterile, which means that at least two genotypically distinct plants are needed to produce seeds. They must be hand-pollinated to avoid hybridization unless hybridization is the goal. Very rarely, they can be self-fertile – this occasionally occurs in H. comptoniana. I also have Tulista opalina that is self-fertile. In many sources you can read that Haworthia seeds are viable just for 6 months, but this is not true at all. Every year I sow seeds that I have left over from previous years’ seed sales and they germinate just fine. If well stored, the seeds are viable for 3 years (this is in my conditions – stored in dry room, in about 15 °C), after this time germination rate goes down but some seeds can germinate even after 5 or more years, but the seedlings are often less viable. Important to note that there are a few species which are problematic, which is, in my experience especially Haworthia groenewaldii and badia. The seeds often have a low germination rate, likely due to inhibitory factors, as freshly harvested seeds sometimes fail to germinate at all. Once I got an email from a keen grower who wrote me that he was disappointed with germination of three different batches of Haworthia badia seeds I sent him but suddenly they germinated all after 6 months!
Pots or plastic boxes: For bigger portions of seeds, I use plastic boxes (15×12 cm and 19×15 cm) and for low portions also pots 7-10 cm (I prefer round pots for sowings). The boxes and pots should be clean – it is better to use new ones or at least carefully clean used ones. Make sure there are holes in the bottom of the boxes/pots for water drainage.
Well-draining cactus or succulent soil mix: Essentially, the same substrate used for mature plants can be used for sowing, but it should not contain too many large particles. You can purchase a commercial sowing mix for vegetables and enhance it with coarse sand and perlite or pumice. Alternatively, you can create your own mix using equal parts of perlite, sand, and peat or coconut coir. Experimentation is sometimes necessary to find the optimal mixture for your specific conditions.
Small pebbles for covering seeds: These pebbles help protect seeds, seedlings, and soil from drying out too quickly while also preventing germinating plants from being pulled above the substrate by their roots. You can purchase them at hobby markets and pet stores or obtain them by sieving coarse sand. Size about 2-5 mm.
Water with fungicide and fertilizer: You can use cooled boiled rainwater (to get rid of fungus spores, algae etc.) or distilled water. If your sowing substrate does not contain any organic part with nutrients, add a little of fertilizer. To eliminate the occurrence of fungus, add a fungicide to the water.
Clear plastic cover or transparent plastic bags: I recommend getting mini greenhouses for sowing in the range of 30-50 cm where you can easily remove the transparent top.
Labels: Used to identify different seed batches. If multiple seed types are sown in the same pot, labels can be used to separate sections.
Warm, bright location (indirect sunlight preferred) or artificial lights.

Step-by-Step Guide to Sowing Haworthia and Gasteria

1. Prepare the Sowing Medium

Small seedlings are very sensitive, and in the humid environment necessary for germination, there is a high risk of fungal growth that can ruin all your efforts. For this reason, the soil should be sterilized. The quickest method is to place the moist soil in a microwave-safe plastic bag and heat it in the microwave at maximum power for 20-30 minutes.

If you use a mix of perlite, clean coarse sand, and coconut coir, sterilization is usually unnecessary. However, if the mix includes peat or a commercial substrate, sterilization is highly recommended.

Fill your sowing containers with the moist, well-draining soil mix, leaving the surface slightly below the rim. This allows room for a layer of pebbles to cover the seeds and provides extra space to prevent overflow during watering.

2. Sow the Seeds

First, place an identification label to the pot. If you have small portions of seeds, you can sow multiple portions into one pot. To do this, divide the pot into sections using plastic labels. It’s advisable to sow into one pot different species that are easy to distinguish in case seeds accidentally shift between sections.

Evenly distribute the seeds across the surface of the sowing medium, ensuring they are not overcrowded to minimize competition and reduce the risk of fungal issues. Gently press the seeds into the surface (not under) using a flat tool without burying them. Pressing the seeds into the surface of the substrate also helps keep them in place and prevents them from being dislodged later.

sown haworthia seeds 800px — Sown Haworthia seeds

Now cover the seeds with a layer of small pebbles (2–5 mm in size). They should be covered but not buried, so let’s say no thicker than 5 mm. Optionally, before you place small pebbles you can cover the seeds with a very thin layer of the same soil (1-2 mm thick) to help them root more easily. While the thin layer of soil is not strictly necessary, it is crucial that the seeds are not buried too deeply in this soil, as they cannot develop properly underground and are more prone to rotting.

fresh haworthia sowings 800px — Fresh Haworthia sowings

3. Create a Humid Environment

Mist the soil with water using a spray bottle or use a syringe or small pots with tiny holes for more precise watering. Consider how moist the sowing mixture already is to avoid overwatering. Be careful not to wash the seeds out. Place the trays or pots individually into transparent plastic bags, or position them in a mini greenhouse to create a humid environment, which is essential for successful seed germination.

4. Light and Temperature

Place the covered sowings in a warm, bright location, but avoid direct sunlight, as the small space can easily overheat. Overheated seeds will not germinate. A good initial location for the sowings is a north-facing windowsill, where there is no direct sunlight and minimal risk of overheating. However, once the seeds germinate, they will likely require more light. At that point, it is advisable to move them to a windowsill with better light exposure.

An ideal temperature range for germination is 20–25 °C (68–77 °F). Lower temperatures slow down germination, while higher temperatures reduce the germination rate and increase the risk of rotting.

5. Germination

Haworthia seed germination takes 1–4 weeks. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, and regularly check for fungus. If you notice fungal hyphae, remove the diseased material and lift the cover to allow fresh air to help. When using mini greenhouses, you can easily remove an infected pot and treat it separately. During the germination phase, sowings should never dry out.

haworthia picta seedlings 800px — Haworthia picta, 2 weeks old seedlings

6. Watering and Maintenance

Once the seeds sprout, gradually remove the plastic cover to acclimate the seedlings to lower humidity. After a few days, you can remove the cover completely. I usually do this after 40–70 days if there are no signs of fungal issues (if there are some fungal issues this has to be done earlier to avoid risk). It is important to observe the appearance of the seedlings for any signs of stress:

If the seedlings elongate and appear pale green, they need more light.
If they remain small and turn reddish-brown, they may be receiving too much light or direct sun.
If they collapse and rot from the base, they are likely overwatered and may require better airflow and less water.

Use a fine spray bottle to keep the sowing medium consistently moist but not waterlogged. Using a watering can could be tricky as it can flush out the small seedlings. Alternatively, you can water from the bottom by placing the pots in a shallow tray of water or when using the mini greenhouse. However, this method leaves the medium very wet for several days, which increases the risk of rotting. Ensure the pots absorb all the water without leaving them standing in excess water for extended periods.

Occasionally some seedlings rot. These should be removed immediately including their roots otherwise it can affect other seedlings around and spread very fast in humid environment.

7. Transplanting

When the seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them into individual pots or together into larger trays. Personally, I keep them in the sowing container for 1-2 years but this timing will vary depending on the plant species, the density of seeding, your watering practices, plant condition, fertilizing etc. Use the same well-draining soil mix (now it can be rougher) or some other mix you use for adult plants. Personally, I keep them in the sowing container 1-2 years. After transplanting, avoid strong sunlight, as they need time to root, and excessive stress may inhibit the process.

Conclusion

Successful seed sowing and growing plants in general requires a holistic approach. In addition to the substrate, proper watering, and ideal temperatures, factors like humidity, balanced light, and adequate nutrition are crucial.

It is essential to understand that these conditions interact and influence each other, creating a dynamic environment. The key for a successful cultivation lies in finding the optimal balance between all these elements, observing plants and change these conditions according plant appearance. For example, soil mixture which works well for one grower does not have to be suitable for another as other conditions are different.

With patience and proper care, you can successfully grow Haworthia from seeds and enjoy their unique beauty in your home or greenhouse. Happy sowing!

growing succulents conditions — All conditions work together to create a dynamic environment for successful succulent growth

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

When is the best time to sow Haworthia seeds? Generally, the best time is during the spring when the light intensity starts to rise and it is not too hot. But if you can provide good conditions for sowings during the year you can sow the seeds anytime.
How dense shall I sow the seeds? I am not a fan of sowing seeds too dense as that means you must either transplant them much sooner or they will be subjects of natural selection (e.g. a lot of them die). To put it in numbers, I think 6×6 cm pot is ideal for 15-20 grains.
How deep should I sow the seeds? Lightly cover: Sow the seeds very shallow, just barely covering them with pebbles. More info in the text above.
Why are my seedlings damping off? There is a fungal disease that causes emerging seedlings to collapse. You should open the sowings which improves ventilation and decreases humidity. To prevent this sowing mixture should be sterilized, water boiled, sowings watered with fungicide or sprayed with hydrogen peroxide after sowings (I am not sure about the concentration – maybe 3 % sold in pharmacy could be enough).
Why are the seeds not germinating? Possible reasons include poor quality seeds, wrong seed storage, incorrect soil moisture, inappropriate temperature, fungal infection.
How can I increase my success rate when sowing Haworthia seeds? Use good quality seeds, maintain consistent growing conditions, practice good hygiene to prevent contamination, be patient and observe your seedlings closely.
Can I use this sowing process also for Astroloba, Poellnitzia or Aloe? Certainly! These are related plants and can be sown under the same conditions. Aloes are usually more robust and grow faster, so be sure not to sow them too dense.
How often shall I water Haworthia seedlings? Haworthia seedlings should never dry out completely, as they are very sensitive. However, the substrate should not remain constantly waterlogged. More water and higher humidity promote faster growth but increase the risk of rot and algae formation. Less water slows down growth but minimizes issues with algae and rot. The optimal watering frequency depends on several factors: pot size, substrate, temperature, ventilation, growth stage (seedlings need the most water in the first few weeks after germination, but later they can tolerate occasional slight drying). The grower’s task is always to find the right balance.